We were Revisiting Zadar for the second time, a city we both remembered fondly. On our first trip, we toured the old town, stopped at St. Anastasia’s Cathedral, explored the Roman ruins, and eventually made our way back to the Sea Organ, where we even took the opportunity to swim right off the waterfront.
This time, we signed up for another excursion into the countryside to visit a local family farm. The cultural excursions we had taken throughout Croatia had all been terrific. This one was no exception, but it was somewhat more rustic than others.
☀️ Greeting to the Sun
Our guide began with a 90-minute tour through the old town. It started at the Greeting to the Sun installation along the harbor front next to our ship.
The installation consists of 300 glass solar panels arranged in a circle about 22 meters (72 feet) across. During the day, the panels collect solar energy, which powers a colorful light display after sunset.
The outer ring is engraved with information inspired by Zadar’s 13th-century Calendar of St. Chrysogonus. It combines the feast days of local saints with medieval calculations that track the Sun and daylight length.
This clever approach connects Zadar’s rich history with a modern attraction. It creates a memorable experience that helps set the city apart.
🎵 Listening to Zadar’s Sea Organ
Next, we walked over to the Sea Organ, another imaginative attraction that makes Zadar unlike any other Croatian coastal town.
Under the waterfront steps, pipes respond to wave motion, pushing air through openings of varying sizes. The result is a constantly changing organ-like soundscape.
Wind and waves cause the music to change. Passing boats further alter it, ensuring no two performances are ever exactly the same.
Thinking about Zadar, I recall the Sea Organ. The Greeting to the Sun, St. Anastasia’s Cathedral, and the Roman ruins also come to mind. Now I also have the Šunić family and their farm, Srce Bukovice, to add to that list.
⛪ St. Anastasia’s Cathedral
From the waterfront, we continued through the old town and passed St. Anastasia’s Cathedral.
The cathedral now charges an entrance fee, which seemed to discourage many visitors from going inside. That was a little disappointing, as I remembered the interior being quite beautiful.
From the exterior, the carved Romanesque façade and the rose window are striking. This helps it rank among Zadar’s most recognizable historic buildings.
🏛️ Zadar’s Roman Forum and St. Donatus
One of the most interesting features of Zadar’s old town is its remarkably well-preserved Roman Forum. The ancient ruins remain highly visible and protected right in the center of town.
Stones from the original Roman structures were later reused. They were incorporated into the nearby Church of St. Donatus in the ninth century. The large, rounded church now stands directly beside the ruins, creating a fascinating blend of Roman and medieval history in one compact area.
Part of our group continued with the guide toward the market, but Bob and I decided to wander around on our own for a while before meeting everyone back at the dock, where our tour bus was waiting.
🚌 Into the Croatian Countryside
A little later, we boarded the bus for the roughly 90-minute drive into the countryside. Our destination was Srce Bukovice, a family farm in the small village of Rodaljice.
Our guide warned us that the experience would be a little rustic, and we soon understood what he meant.
As we pulled onto the property, the bus stopped beside a weathered old barn and an animal pen with a donkey on one side and several sheep nearby.
🥃 Grappa, Almonds, and an Unusual Welcome
Waiting to greet us was an entertaining young man carrying a tray of grappa shots and sugared almonds—a welcome tradition we would encounter several more times during our travels through the region.
He introduced himself as Stipe Šunić and welcomed us in what sounded like a very unusual version of English.
We soon realized that he was imitating a line from an old American Western.
It turned out that Stipe had learned much of his English by watching American cartoons and movies and had memorized all kinds of exaggerated accents and impersonations from the shows he watched.
He was quite a character, and had everyone laughing within minutes.
🌿 Exploring Srce Bukovice Farm
After our grappa, Stipe led us up the long driveway toward the family home.
Along the way, he pointed out olive groves and told us about the family’s award-winning olive oil. We also passed almond trees, fruit trees, vegetable gardens, and several other crops that I can no longer remember.
The farm is one of several ventures the family is developing as they work to revitalize the property while preserving the traditions of the Bukovica region.
🍽️ A Family-Style Croatian Lunch
Inside, we found a surprisingly warm and inviting dining room with a large hearth and fireplace along one wall, three long wooden tables with benches, and a serving counter near the entrance.
Stipe welcomed us into his home and immediately went to work as our host, offering wine, water, and several homemade flavored syrups.
He then brought out large platters of cured meats and cheeses, baskets of fresh bread, and bottles of the family’s outstanding olive oil.
As we ate, we learned more about Stipe, his family, and the farm he is working hard to revitalize. He is developing several new ventures to help make the property profitable, including hosting groups from cruise ships and tour companies during the busy travel season.
We shared plenty of laughs throughout the afternoon. Stipe was full of personality, and the relaxed family-style meal also gave us a chance to get to know some of our fellow cruisers a little better.
🧅 A Parting Gift from the Garden
Before we knew it, it was time to leave.
Stipe escorted us back toward the bus with a warm goodbye and even offered us onions he had just harvested from the garden.
Unfortunately, none of us had much use for fresh onions aboard a cruise ship, but it was a thoughtful gesture that perfectly captured the hospitality we experienced throughout the afternoon.
❤️ Why Revisiting Zadar Was Worth Another Look
While this excursion wasn’t polished or elaborate, it more than made up for it with genuine hospitality, local character, and a wonderful glimpse into everyday life in the Croatian countryside.
Zadar already had several landmarks that made it memorable for us—the Sea Organ, Greeting to the Sun, Roman Forum, and St. Anastasia’s Cathedral.
After this visit, we can now add Stipe Šunić and the wonderfully rustic Srce Bukovice farm to that list.
Sometimes it isn’t the grand attractions that leave the strongest memories. It’s the people you meet along the way, and this turned out to be one of those days we’ll remember for a very long time.
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