Highlights of Croatia

Our First Coastal Journey Along the Adriatic

Bob and I first experienced the highlights of Croatia in July 2017 while celebrating an anniversary aboard the sailing yacht Wind Star. The twelve-day journey from Athens to Venice turned out to be one of the most intimate and enjoyable Mediterranean cruises we had taken.

Sailing north along Croatia’s dramatic Adriatic coastline, we quickly realized this was far more than a scenic stretch of ports. It was a country layered with history, resilience, artistry, and deep cultural pride.

We knew very little about Croatia when we arrived.

By the time we left Rovinj, we knew we would return.

🏰 Dubrovnik: A Walled City Reborn

Our first Croatian stop was Dubrovnik, where our small sailing vessel anchored offshore, dwarfed by larger cruise ships. A tender carried us to the gates of Old Town — a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

Dubrovnik dates back to the 7th century and rose to prominence as the independent Republic of Ragusa, a powerful maritime city-state that rivaled Venice. Its massive stone walls, built between the 12th and 17th centuries, remain among the most impressive fortifications in Europe.

Walking the city walls with our Windstar guide took about 90 minutes and provided sweeping views of:

• The Adriatic’s brilliant blue waters
• Red-tiled rooftops glowing in the sun
• Mountains rising dramatically behind the city

Our guide pointed out Byzantine and Venetian influences, and shared stories of devastation and recovery — from the catastrophic earthquake of 1667 to the shelling during the Yugoslav War in 1991.

The fact that Dubrovnik has rebuilt itself — beautifully and meticulously — speaks volumes about the resilience of the Croatian people.

Strolling the Stradun

After the wall walk, we wandered the Stradun, Dubrovnik’s polished limestone main boulevard. Bistros lined the squares. Artisans displayed handcrafted goods. Musicians prepared for an evening performance near the southern wall.

Yes, there were Game of Thrones shops everywhere — and many passengers raved about the themed tours — but what stood out most to us was the pride and elegance of the city itself.

That evening, after swimming from the marina platform off the stern of the Wind Star, we returned ashore for an anniversary dinner overlooking the lit western walls. With local olive oils and Croatian wines paired with each course, it was a magical Adriatic night.

🌊 Zadar & Pag: Salt, Sound & Roman Foundations

Sailing north through a maze of islands, we docked in Zadar, one of Croatia’s oldest continuously inhabited cities.

We opted for an excursion to the island of Pag, known for three enduring traditions:

1. Salt
2. Cheese
3. Lace

🧂 Salt of Pag

Pag’s salt production dates back over 2,000 years. Its mineral-rich sea salt is still harvested from expansive salt flats and remains a key export.

🧀 Pag Cheese

Pag cheese, made from sheep grazing on herb-covered rocky terrain, has a distinct sharp flavor. Bob approved wholeheartedly.

🪡 Pag Lace

Perhaps most fascinating was Pag lace, a 500-year-old tradition that began in the Convent of St. Margaret. Watching artisans work intricate patterns by hand was like stepping into living history.

🏛 Zadar’s Roman Roots

In Zadar, we walked through Roman ruins integrated seamlessly into modern life. Transparent coverings reveal ancient foundations beneath public squares.

We visited the Cathedral of St. Anastasia — the largest cathedral in Dalmatia — before heading to the waterfront.

🎶 The Sea Organ

Zadar’s most unique feature is the Sea Organ — a series of underwater pipes built into the stone promenade. As waves push air through the pipes, haunting, musical tones rise from the sea.

At sunset, locals and visitors gather here. The water is so clean it’s designated a Blue Flag swimming area — and yes, I jumped in.

Bob later said Zadar may have been his favorite stop.

🚴 Rovinj & Istria: Hills, Art & Truffles

Our final Croatian stop was Rovinj, a charming coastal town on the Istrian Peninsula.

Unfortunately, Bob was fighting a cold, so I headed out alone on our cycling excursion into the hills of Istria.

The ride followed a converted railway trail through rolling green countryside that reminded me of California’s Sonoma or Napa Valley.

We pedaled about 15 kilometers through tunnels and wooded areas before reaching Grožnjan, a small hilltop medieval village now home to artists and musicians.

With sweeping views over vineyards and forests — prime truffle territory — the town felt peaceful and creative. Musicians played in the square while we explored small galleries and shops.

Istria is known for its truffles, olive oil, and wine — and the landscape alone makes it clear why this region has long been prized by Venetians, Romans, and Austro-Hungarians alike.

🇭🇷 Croatia: A Country of Resilience & Pride

Throughout our journey, our guides shared personal stories of growing up during the 1990s war for independence.

Croatia’s recovery has been extraordinary.

• Infrastructure rebuilt
• Historic cities restored
• Natural areas preserved as national parks
• Tourism carefully developed

Even in 2017, we sensed a country confidently reclaiming its identity while honoring its past.

Why We’re Going Back

We only experienced a slice of coastal Croatia on that sailing voyage.

But it was enough.

Enough to fall in love with the Adriatic’s color.
Enough to admire Dubrovnik’s resilience.
Enough to appreciate Zadar’s creativity.
Enough to explore Istria’s artistic hills.

This summer, we’ll return to many of these ports — and look forward to sharing deeper, more immersive stories from Dubrovnik, Zadar, Rovinj, and beyond.

Croatia was never meant to be a one-time visit.

We are heading back to Croatia on a refurbished Windstar ‘Windsurf’ for our 50th anniversary. It was only fitting that we revisit this area aboard Windstar for this anniversary and trip. We head there in July of 2026. Look for our posts.