Fairways on Lava Fields and a Sunset Dinner in Hawaii’s Ranch Country
The Big Island of Hawaii is famous for volcanoes, beaches, and incredible ocean adventures, but another side of the island often surprises visitors: its golf courses and vast ranch lands.
Between rounds of golf and exploring the island, Bob and I discovered that the Big Island also has a long and fascinating ranching tradition dating back to the early 1800s. Rolling green pastures, cattle ranches, and small paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) towns occupy the northern slopes of the island — a landscape that feels worlds away from the lava fields and beaches along the Kona coast.
During our stay we experienced both sides of this story: golfing on dramatic lava-lined fairways and enjoying a memorable evening at a working cattle ranch in the island’s northern highlands.
⛳ Golfing on the Big Island
Bob and I love to golf whenever we travel, and the Hawaiian Islands offer some of the most spectacular golf scenery anywhere in the world.
The contrast between lush fairways, black lava rock formations, and sweeping Pacific Ocean views makes nearly every round memorable. During the winter and spring months, golfers are often treated to sightings of humpback whales just offshore while playing.
Sometimes it’s hard to focus on the game when the scenery keeps pulling your attention away.
But when the golf gods are not smiling on your swing, those views make it much easier to relax and enjoy the day.
🌋 Waikoloa Beach Resort Golf
One afternoon Bob, Danielle, and I played the Beach Course at Waikoloa Beach Resort Golf Course, located along the Kohala Coast.
The course winds through ancient lava flows and coastal terrain, creating several striking holes with ocean views framed by black volcanic rock.
The resort itself includes hotels, timeshare condos, shopping areas, and several excellent restaurants. One of our favorites is Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill, known for its blend of Hawaiian and Asian flavors.
Our round included the usual mixture of great shots, bad shots, and a few truly ugly ones — which seems to happen every time we golf.
Still, the scenery alone made the day worthwhile.
🏌️ Mauna Lani North Course
After the kids had returned home, Bob and I managed to squeeze in another round at the North Course at Mauna Lani Golf.
This course may have been even more impressive.
The fairways cut through rugged lava formations, and the course design highlights the dramatic contrast between green turf and black volcanic rock.
The signature 17th hole, a par three played over a lava field toward the ocean, is one of the most memorable holes on the island. With strong coastal winds blowing across the lava cliffs, club selection becomes a challenge.
Strangely, the course was almost empty that day. We played the entire round without seeing another group of golfers, which made the experience even more relaxing.
By the end of the round we were hot, tired, and hungry — but our day was only halfway finished.
🤠 Ranching on the Big Island
Most visitors don’t immediately associate Hawaii with cattle ranching, but the Big Island has a deep ranching tradition.
The island’s northern highlands are home to Parker Ranch, one of the largest and oldest cattle ranches in the United States.
Founded in 1847, Parker Ranch helped establish the paniolo culture — Hawaii’s version of the cowboy. Mexican vaqueros introduced many of the ranching techniques used here today, and the paniolo tradition remains an important part of Hawaiian history.
The rolling green pastures around Waimea and Kohala provide ideal grazing land for cattle, creating landscapes that sometimes feel more like Ireland or northern California than tropical Hawaii.
🌄 A Sunset Dinner at Kahua Ranch
While browsing our copy of Hawaii the Big Island Revealed: The Ultimate Guidebook, we discovered something intriguing: sunset dinner events at Kahua Ranch.
After finishing our round at Mauna Lani, we drove north along the quiet Kohala Coast toward the ranch.
As we left the lava fields behind, the landscape changed dramatically. Black volcanic terrain slowly gave way to lush green hills climbing toward the slopes of the extinct Kohala Volcano.
Small villages dotted the countryside as we made our way through the town of Hawi and turned inland along a narrow road into the mountains.
Our GPS took us slightly past the entrance — which was easy to miss — and for a moment we wondered if we were truly heading the right direction. But eventually the dirt road opened into the rolling pastures of Kahua Ranch.
🌅 An Evening in Hawaii’s Ranch Country
We were greeted by the friendly ranch owner, who invited guests to explore the property before dinner.
The scenery was stunning.
Mist drifted across green hillsides while horses, sheep, and cattle grazed quietly across the valley. In the distance, the Pacific Ocean shimmered far below the mountains.
The setting reminded us of Ireland — green, peaceful, and incredibly scenic.
Inside a small gift shop, a staff member shared the history of the ranch and the land through photographs and stories from generations of ranch life.
Soon afterward we gathered at picnic tables inside a large covered pavilion where dinner would be served.
🍖 A Hawaiian Ranch Dinner
Dinner was accompanied by live music from a local cowboy musician who kept the crowd entertained throughout the evening.
Guests at our table came from all over the world, and conversation flowed easily as the sun set behind the hills.
The meal included:
- roast beef
- chicken
- ribs
- traditional side dishes
Everything was hearty, simple, and delicious.
Later in the evening homemade pies, brownies, and cakes were served with coffee and tea.
Outside, families gathered around small fire pits making s’mores, while children tried their hand at branding wooden souvenirs with the ranch’s “K” cattle brand.
It was a relaxed, memorable evening that gave us a glimpse into a part of Hawaiian culture many visitors never see.
🌙 The Drive Back to Kona
Around 9:30 PM, we decided it was time to head back to Kona.
The drive was both beautiful and challenging. With little moonlight and winding mountain roads, we descended nearly 3,200 feet back toward the coast in near darkness.
The journey took almost two hours.
By the time we arrived back at our house overlooking Kailua-Kona, we were exhausted. As we fell into bed, the sound of ocean waves and rustling palm trees outside reminded us how lucky we were to experience such a unique day on the Big Island.
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