After a day sailing across the Tasman Sea, we arrived in Eden around 8 a.m., greeted by calm water and the sweeping curve of Twofold Bay.
Eden is a small coastal town tucked along New South Wales’ Sapphire Coast — the kind of place where cliffs meet open ocean and history lingers in the salt air. With just one day to explore, we focused on three things:
- A boat tour around Twofold Bay
- Lunch in town
- Learning the legendary story of Old Tom and Eden’s whaling past
Learning about the whaling industry and Old Tom turned out to be one of the most fascinating days of our Australian journey.
🌊 Exploring Twofold Bay by Catamaran
Our morning began aboard a large catamaran for a 2½-hour sightseeing cruise around Twofold Bay.
This is one of the deepest natural harbors in the Southern Hemisphere — a geographic feature that made Eden historically significant for both shipping and whaling.
As we worked our way up the western coastline, the scenery unfolded dramatically:
- Towering, jagged sandstone cliffs
- Pristine beaches
- Crystal-clear water
- Remote forested headlands
The captain and crew helped us scan the cliffs for wildlife. We were fortunate to spot two massive wedge-tailed eagles (often mistaken for golden eagles) circling above the ridgelines — an impressive sight against the open sky.
We continued toward the mouth of the bay where it meets the Tasman Sea, then crossed open water to explore the opposite shoreline.
Unfortunately, it wasn’t whale season, so we didn’t see humpbacks or dolphins. Still, the landscape alone made the trip worthwhile.
🗼 Boyd’s Tower
One of the visual highlights was Boyd’s Tower, a historic sandstone structure perched dramatically above the sea.
Built in the 1840s by entrepreneur Benjamin Boyd, the tower was originally intended as a lighthouse and lookout during the height of Eden’s whaling era. It now stands as a reminder of the town’s maritime ambitions and complicated past.
We also passed a working dock used by lumber operations and the Australian military before returning to the pier where Viking Neptune waited.
🍽 Lunch in Town: Australasia Hotel
After returning to port, Bob and I took the Viking shuttle up the steep hill into Eden’s compact town center.
A few blocks of small shops led us to the Australasia Hotel, a classic Australian pub-style establishment known for seafood and relaxed hospitality.
Situated in the heart of Eden’s town center, this charming hotel offers a cozy ambiance and a menu brimming with fresh seafood, hearty pub fare, and locally sourced ingredients.
Bob ordered:
- Freshly shucked oysters
- A pizza
I chose:
- A Caesar salad topped with a giant prawn
Friends from the ship joined us, and we lingered over wine and beer, enjoying the easygoing, coastal atmosphere.
Eden feels unhurried — the kind of town where lunch stretches comfortably into the afternoon.
🐋 A Whaling Dynasty & the Story of Old Tom
After lunch, we walked to the Killer Whale Museum, housed in a historic whaling station overlooking Twofold Bay,.
This small but powerful museum preserves one of Australia’s most unusual maritime stories.
🐋 The Yuin People
Long before European settlement, the Yuin people, the Indigenous custodians of this coastline, hunted whales from bark canoes as early as the 1700s. The bay’s geography — deep waters close to shore — made it ideal for whale migration.
Their connection to the sea predates the commercial whaling industry by generations.
🐳 Old Tom & the “Law of the Tongue”
In the 1800s, Eden became a major whaling center. But what made it famous was the extraordinary cooperation between human whalers and a pod of killer whales — especially one named Old Tom.
According to documented accounts:
- Old Tom and his pod would herd baleen whales into Twofold Bay.
- They would alert the whalers by thrashing the water near shore.
- After the whale was harpooned, the orcas helped hold it until the crews secured it.
- In return, the whalers followed the “Law of the Tongue,” allowing the orcas to eat the tongue and lips first.
Old Tom’s skeleton hangs inside the museum. Guides point out wear on his teeth and jaw — believed to be from grabbing the ropes attached to whaling boats.
It is a fascinating, complicated story — one of cooperation, exploitation, survival, and shifting human values.
Commercial whaling declined in the 1900s and was officially outlawed in Australia in 1978.
Today, Eden has shifted from whaling to whale watching and marine conservation. The crew from our morning catamaran tour were strong advocates for ocean preservation — a fitting contrast to the history we had just learned.
Leaving Eden, we certainly understood why it was once a whaling dynasty.
Visiting Eden, Australia, for a day is a laid-back and fun experience that combines natural beauty, culinary delights, and rich cultural heritage. From exploring the scenic landscapes of Twofold Bay to indulging in a sumptuous lunch at the Australasia Hotel and delving into the maritime history of the Killer Whale Museum, Eden offers something for everyone to enjoy.
Plan your visit to this charming coastal town and discover the magic of Eden for yourself. If time allows, several great hiking trails start near the port area and climb the road to the top of the high cliffs. A few fellow passengers went hiking and said it was beautiful.
🌏 Our Australia Cruise Journey
Our Australian itinerary included four unforgettable stops:
- Melbourne Sea Dragons and the Great Open Road: Underwater wonders in Portsea & a scenic Great Ocean Road adventure
- Parade of the Penguins – Wildlife spectacle with Little Penguins at sunset
- Eden, Australia – Whales, coastal history, and seaside charm
- Discovering The Sights and Sounds of Sydney – Iconic city landmarks, harbor views, and urban exploration
- A Premature End to our World Cruise – sad, but so thankful.
Follow along as we explore this remarkable country from south to north — from unique marine life to rugged coastlines and vibrant cities.
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