🏴☠️ Discovering Orkney Islands and the Town of Kirkwall: A Day We’ll Never Forget
Arriving in Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkney Islands, we were greeted by brisk Scottish winds and surprisingly sunny skies. Bob and I knew nothing about the area when we set off on an ‘The Optional Taste of Orkney Tour,’—but by the end, we were in awe of this small but mighty archipelago with its important history, resilience, and quiet beauty.
The real star of the day was our guide Lorene, who brought the Orkney Islands to life with warmth, passion, and deep-rooted knowledge. She didn’t just tell stories—she lived them. Her family history and love for the islands added an emotional depth to every site we visited.
⚓ Scapa Flow: The Naval Stronghold That Shaped History
Our first stop was Scapa Flow, one of the world’s largest natural harbors, surrounded by protective islands and peninsulas. It served as a key Royal Navy base during both World Wars. We learned how its unique geography gave Britain a strategic edge, but also made it a target.
During World War I, the British stationed the Grand Fleet here. To guard against German U-boats, they sunk blockships in the channels and laid minefields. In 1919, after the war ended, 74 captured German ships were anchored at Scapa Flow. Rather than hand them over to the Allies, German officers scuttled 52 of them—still the largest deliberate sinking of ships in history. Most were raised to clean the harbor, but remnants of a few plus some of the original block ships are still buried in the cold waters, making this harbor ideal for northern scuba enthusiasts. I would love to come back to dive in Scapa Flow someday with my daughter.
Once World War II began, tragedy struck early. In October 1939, a German U-boat slipped through the gaps in the WWI defenses and torpedoed the HMS Royal Oak, killing over 830 men. The HMS Royal Oak still remains at the bottom of the harbor and is a protected national monument.
The sinking of the HMS Royal Oak, prompted a visit from Winston Churchill, who understood the strategic importance of Scapa Flow quickly ordered the construction of permanent defenses.
🧱 The Churchill Barriers: Built by POWs, Standing Strong Today
The Churchill Barriers were constructed between 1940 and 1944 to seal off vulnerable eastern inlets to Scapa Flow. These five impressive structures connect several Orkney islands—Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray, and South Ronaldsay—forming the roads used today.
Labor and materials were scarce, so Churchill authorized the use of over 600 Italian prisoners of war, captured in North Africa, to build the barriers. Using pre-fabricated concrete blocks, quarried stone, and wire mesh, these men created lasting defenses. Not only did they achieve building the Churchill Barriers, they also left behind something extraordinary…
⛪ The Italian Chapel: A Humble Testament to Faith and Craftsmanship
We visited the Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm, and while it may not sound like much, it was one of the most moving stops of the day.
Built by the same Italian POWs who constructed the barriers, this chapel is a stunning example of faith, artistry, and hope under harsh conditions. Using scrap material, tin cans, and hand-painted flourishes, they created everything from faux brickwork and stained glass to wrought iron gates and detailed frescoes.
The result is a profoundly spiritual space that speaks volumes about the human spirit. The local community lovingly maintains it to this day and has been revisited by several of the POW’S after the war for various ceremonies.
🍽️ A Taste of Orkney at the Sands Hotel
Our next stop was a charming seaside meal at the Sands Hotel in Burray. Inside its warm, wood-paneled dining room, we enjoyed a locally inspired tasting: fresh Orkney cheese, hearty bread, fruit, and delicious locally made ice cream, served with that famous Scottish hospitality. The weather was turning windier, colder and rainier giving us just a taste of the Scottish weather we were expecting.
🏛️ Orkney Wartime Museum: Stories Preserved in Stone and Steel
The final stop on our tour was the Orkney Fossil and Heritage Centre, a small but fascinating museum that houses ancient fossils, wartime artifacts, and a scale model of Scapa Flow. A giant floor map, naval displays, and personal stories brought Orkney’s wartime role vividly to life. The museum also had prehistoric diagrams, beautiful Ammo-nites, and other fossils from prehistoric times which were millions of years old. We could have spent hours exploring more of the museum, especially the World War II memorabilia.
There was no better way of Discovering Orkney, than to spend a few hours at this quaint Museum.
🚶♀️ Exploring Kirkwall on Foot: From Cathedral to Cobblestones
Back in Kirkwall, with a couple of hours to spare, Bob and I split up to explore. I wandered through charming cobblestone streets toward the imposing St Magnus Cathedral.
Built in 1137 by Norse rulers, it’s one of Scotland’s most iconic medieval churches. Crafted from red and yellow sandstone, it combines Romanesque and Gothic design, and houses the relics of St Magnus, a local martyr. Walking through its cool interior, with stained glass filtering soft light across centuries-old stone, I could feel the layers of history in every corner of this simple and wonderfully designed cathedral.
💙 Final Thoughts: Orkney Surprised Us in the Best Way
From a windswept harbor of global significance to a handmade chapel that touched our hearts, Orkney proved to be a treasure trove of stories and humanity. We left with a deeper appreciation not just for history, but for the people who preserve it, like Lorene, whose voice and spirit brought the past alive.
We boarded our ship filled with gratitude and inspiration. Orkney may have been a stop on our itinerary, but it became one of the most memorable chapters of our journey.
A Detour – Courtesy of Mother Nature
For the first time since Bergen, the weather had turned gray, windy, and rainy. Shortly after departing Scapa Flow harbor, the Captain announced that a low-pressure system was intensifying over Scotland. As a result, we would not be able to make our scheduled stop in Edinburgh, which we were all looking forward to. However, due to the hard work of the guest service team and the captain, they planned to sail the next day and stop at Dover the day after. Tours were being planned and would be available by the following afternoon. Luckily, the seas were not too heavy as we sailed through the night and the next day to the White Cliffs of Dover.
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