First Impressions of Lerwick: Harbor Charm, Shetland Ponies & Old-World Character
After two days heading south through the North Sea from Honningsvåg, Norway, our ship pulled into Lerwick, the capital of the Shetland Islands. Immediately, we were struck by how different this place felt from mainland Norway. These tiny islands are the northernmost from mainland Scotland. Dotted along a peaceful harbor were gray stone multi-level homes, colorful boats, and the occasional ruin giving away the town’s medieval age. It’s a place where time doesn’t hurry—where the sea, sky, and stone set the tone. Everything looked and felt sturdy – able to withstand the harshest of elements. Even the huge fishing ships in the harbor looked massive and formidable.
Located over 100 miles north of mainland Scotland, Shetland is made up of over 100 islands, only 16 of which are inhabited. It’s the northernmost part of the United Kingdom, closer to Norway than Edinburgh—something that’s clearly reflected in its Norse roots, architecture, and island traditions. Gone were the steep mountains of Norway, giving way to rolling hills composed of hard landscape and wild grasses struggling to survive in the harsh, windswept conditions. Trees could only be found in low-lying, wind-protected areas.
🏡 Wandering the Old Town & A Tasty Stop at The Dowry
We began our day by exploring the historic town of Lerwick, where narrow lanes are lined with charming shops, friendly locals, and a cozy maritime vibe. Browsing the boutiques felt like stepping back in time, yet there’s a distinct energy here—one foot in tradition, the other in everyday island life. There weren’t many people on the streets, which was a nice change from the more popular ports.
Our walk through the medieval town led us to The Dowry, a local favorite, where we indulged in what might be the best fish and chips we’ve had. Crisp, fresh, and served with a smile—it was the perfect refuel before heading back out into town. Along the way, we came upon a man and a golden goat. Not Kidding! There they were, standing on the corner, ready to pose with the tourist for a coin. Adorable goat!
🚘 Exploring the Shetland Countryside
In the afternoon, we boarded the included excursion—a tour of the rugged, rolling hills that characterize the Shetland landscape. Every turn revealed another postcard-perfect view: grazing sheep or cattle, windblown grasses, and coastal inlets that looked out over a scatter of smaller islands and tranquil bays.
Our guide was a local who traded in his former job, teaching, to become a tour guide. He provided fascinating insights about the TV series “Shetland”, which has garnered international attention for these quiet isles. Apparently, they are filming their 10th season. Seeing the real landscapes, homes, and businesses used in the drama made us promise to start watching the series available on BritBox when we returned home.
🐴 Carol’s Shetland Ponies: A Heartwarming Highlight
The absolute highlight of our tour came when we pulled into a sprawling grassland farm and were greeted by Carol and her lovable herd of Shetland ponies.
Carol is a local legend in her own right. She loves to share how these small but mighty animals, which were once used in farming and coal mining due to their strength and size. Shetland ponies are the strongest of all horse breeds and can pull twice their weight. Most horses can only pull half their weight. But today? These ponies live the good life—retired from hard labor and now basking in the admiration of the hundreds of tourists who visit each day, rain or shine.
Carol makes her living showing off these irresistible animals, and it’s clear they enjoy the spotlight. Hearing her stories—of heritage, resilience, and how she came to own her first pony—was deeply touching. Surrounded by hills that have witnessed centuries of life and labor, I was glad that the ponies and Carol were living an easier life while educating interested tourists about the history and breed of the Shetland Pony. We enjoyed meeting Carol, and seeing her ponies in the inspiring Scottish countryside. I was sure to buy a few tourist trinkets from the little truck-based shop to add to her day’s bounty.
🏰 Scalloway & A Glimpse Into the Past
We also made a stop in Scalloway, once the capital of Shetland. This quaint fishing town is still known for cod fishing, but its main attraction is the ruins of Scalloway Castle, built in 1599 by the infamous Earl Patrick Stewart. The ruined tower looms over the harbor like a forgotten sentry, full of stories waiting to be told. After taking a few pictures and stretching our legs, we hopped back into the tour bus.
🐑 A Final Look: Reflection on the Isles
As we drove back toward Lerwick, I took one last look at the rolling green pastures, the content sheep and cattle, and the glimmering inlets that define the Shetland Islands. There’s a quiet power here. A connection between land, people, and animals that feels unbroken by time and rarely found in our daily life.
One Last Thing: Up Helly Aa
One of the things we heard a lot about was Lerwick’s Viking festival. Every January, Shetland blazes to life with the Up Helly Aa festival, a spectacular Viking fire celebration that lights up the long winter nights.
Held in Lerwick and several surrounding communities, this modern festival honors Shetland’s Norse heritage with costumed parades, torchlit processions, and the dramatic burning of a hand-crafted Viking longship.
Locals spend all year preparing elaborate costumes and performances, culminating in a high-spirited evening that brings the entire community together. It’s loud, fiery, and unforgettable—a true testament to Shetland’s fierce pride in its cultural roots.
There is a small museum in Lerwick that showcases the festival and the boats used, but we didn’t have the time to visit it during our stay. However, as we began to leave the harbor, a Viking Long boat sailed by our stateroom balcony, and I was able to get this picture.
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