We had bags in the lobby by 7:30 am, fueled up with a quick stop at Starbucks for coffee, tea, and pastries, and were genuinely buzzing with excitement. The train days had been extraordinary — but this final leg of the journey was the one we had been building toward. Today we would drive one of the most beautiful roads on earth, walk on ancient glacial ice, and finally set foot in Banff.

The Icefields Parkway: One of the World’s Greatest Drives

The Icefields Parkway — officially Highway 93 — stretches 232 kilometers (144 miles) south from Jasper through Banff National Park, connecting two of Canada’s most iconic mountain towns through a corridor of staggering natural beauty. The parkway has been welcoming travelers since 1940, and today it’s regularly ranked by Conde Nast Traveler as one of the most scenic drives in the world. Having now driven it ourselves, we have absolutely no argument with that assessment.

What makes the parkway so remarkable isn’t any single landmark — it’s the relentless accumulation of beauty. Snow-capped mountain ranges formed a jaw-dropping backdrop to every single photograph we took. Shimmering turquoise lakes appeared around corners without warning. Rivers carved through valleys below us as we climbed through mountain passes. And all of it presided over by a sky that seemed impossibly blue and wide.

First Stop: Sunwapta Falls

Our first stop was Sunwapta Falls — and what a way to begin. The falls sit on the Sunwapta River in Jasper National Park, fed by the Athabasca Glacier, with an 18.5-meter (61-foot) drop through a narrow canyon. The name ‘Sunwapta’ comes from the Stoney Indigenous language and means — fittingly — ‘turbulent water.

The falls are known for their crystal-clear waters and very strong summer water flow. Seeing them in late May, with the spring melt at near-peak, they were absolutely thundering. The surrounding scenery — towering pine forests, mountain peaks in every direction — made every viewpoint a postcard.

Second Stop: Athabasca Falls — Even More Powerful

If Sunwapta Falls was our appetizer, Athabasca Falls was the main event. More powerful and more dramatic than our first stop, the Athabasca River narrows before it hits the cliff edge, then cascades over with extraordinary force through quartzite canyons carved over thousands of years.

The Athabasca River is the largest river in Jasper National Park. We crossed several small pedestrian bridges that gave us views from every angle, and I would have paid dearly for every photograph taken there. According to informational signs at the falls, there are 14 species of fish below the falls — but only one, the Bull Trout, found above it.

The Remarkable Hydrological Apex

Here’s something that stopped all of us in our tracks. The rivers that flow from the Columbia Icefield are among the very few on earth that drain to three separate oceans:

The Athabasca River flows north to the Arctic Ocean.

The Columbia and Fraser Rivers flow west to the Pacific Ocean.

The North Saskatchewan River flows east to Hudson River and out to the Atlantic Ocean.

This rare phenomenon — where a single watershed feeds three separate oceans — is known as a Hydrological Apex or Triple Continental Divide. We were all genuinely mesmerized. Standing at Athabasca Falls, knowing the water rushing past us was heading for the Arctic while water just a few miles away was bound for the Pacific — there’s something profoundly humbling about that.

The Columbia Icefield: Getting on Ancient Ice

This was the moment we had all been anticipating since we booked the trip.

The Columbia Icefield is the largest icefield in the Canadian Rockies, lying on a wide, elevated plateau on the British Columbia-Alberta border. First discovered in 1898 by British explorer J. Norman Collie, it formed around 240,000 years ago — and some of the ice at the end of the Athabasca Glacier was snow that fell over 400 years ago.

We arrived at the Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre and immediately spotted the vehicles waiting to take us onto the glacier — enormous specialized ice buses with massive wheels and tires unlike anything we’d seen. Each bus carried around 50 passengers, specially engineered to handle the 63-degree grade descent down to the glacier surface.

As we drove down toward the ice, our guide explained the lateral moraine visible on the canyon walls — the rocky debris left behind as the glacier retreated. Because of a warming climate, the Athabasca Glacier has been receding for the last 125 years, losing more than 1.5 km of its length and over half its volume. The glacier currently loses depth at a rate of about 5 meters (16 feet) per year. Seeing the moraine markers showing where the glacier once stood — over 100 feet higher than its current level — gave us a visceral sense of geological time and climate change that no textbook could replicate.

We arrived at the designated visitor area on the glacier and climbed out onto the ancient ice. Nobody stayed out long — a bitter wind was whipping down from the mountain. But it was absolutely extraordinary. Walking on 400-year-old ice, surrounded by mountains and silence — that’s not an experience you forget.

Back on the snow bus, then down to the Icefield Discovery Centre for a buffet lunch — included in our Rocky Mountaineer tour — with plenty of variety for everyone. After lunch we headed to the gift shop before our next stop, just down the road.

The Columbia Icefield Skywalk

The Columbia Icefield Skywalk is one of those experiences that sounds terrifying on paper and delivers completely in person. The all-glass walkway stretches 1,312 feet along the cliff face, 918 feet above the Sunwapta Valley, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers that simply cannot be replicated from ground level.

Getting Mary out onto the glass-bottom section required some gentle encouragement — but she overcame her hesitation and made it all the way to the end. We were all proud of her, and the views made every nervous step worthwhile.

After being thoroughly photo bombed by our wonderfully entertaining tour guide, Lasa, we loaded back onto the bus for the remainder of the drive south to Banff.

Five Mountain Ranges, Five River Valleys

The hours that followed were filled with sustained, jaw-dropping scenery. We traversed five distinct river valleys — Athabasca, Sunwapta, North Saskatchewan, Mistaya, and Bow — each with its own character and beauty.

Along the way, Lasa and our driver took turns narrating the geography, geology, and history of the region — with the occasional well-timed dad joke. We stopped at scenic overlooks to photograph shimmering alpine lakes, mountain faces, waterfalls, and hoodoos — the remarkable eroded rock formations that rise from the valley floors.

At one point, a bus attendant appeared from under the bus with a tray of hot chocolate and freshly baked chocolate chip cookies. Sometimes the small moments are the best ones.

Lake Louise: A Dream Fulfilled

As we descended into the Bow River Valley, Lasa began talking about Lake Louise and the legendary Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise — which my grandmother had visited in the early 1920s.

William Cornelius Van Horne, general manager of the Canadian Pacific Railway, had a vision of bringing people west to experience the spectacular mountain landscapes. His famous quote: ‘If we cannot export the scenery, we shall import the tourists.’ In 1890, Van Horne commissioned a one-story log cabin on the shore of Lake Louise — the modest beginning of what is today a 5-star UNESCO World Heritage hotel.

This was one of the most personal moments of the entire journey for me. My grandmother had stood here a century ago. Now it was my turn. We weren’t staying at the hotel — but I stood at the lake shore and looked at the same turquoise water and the Victoria Glacier rising behind it that she had once photographed. Over sixty years of my family’s reverence for this place, and here I finally was.

Two Days in Banff: A Mountain Town with Personality and Great Ice Cream

We arrived at the Moose Lake Lodge hotel around 6:30 pm. We decided to eat at the hotel’s restaurant, Pacini — and unfortunately, it was the one notable miss of the entire trip. Mediocre food and inexperienced service. Skip Pacini and head into town — Banff’s main street is lined with genuinely excellent restaurants just a short walk away.

Restaurants we’d recommend in Banff:

• Hello Sunshine — fun Japanese dinner with eclectic choices and great sushi
• St. James Gate Irish Pub — hearty, satisfying lunch, great atmosphere
• The Fairmont – Banff Springs Hotel Patio — overlooking the river, golf course, and mountains
• Fire and Grill — excellent breakfast option main street Banff

Exploring Banff Town

Our full day in Banff brought continued blue skies and perfect temperatures. Banff is an eminently walkable town with a charming main street full of interesting shops, galleries, and restaurants.

We set off on foot toward the Bow River Bridge for photos, then into the beautiful Cascade of Time. Gardens — lovely in late May but not yet in full bloom. We could only imagine how spectacular it must be a month later when the flowers fully open.

From the gardens, we made our way up to the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel for lunch on the outdoor patio overlooking the grounds — the river, the golf course, and the mountains forming one of those views you don’t want to stop looking at. Mary and I may have thoroughly tested the signature Margaritas.

That evening: a wonderful Japanese dinner at Hello Sunshine, followed by the moment we’d been planning all day — COWS Banff ice cream parlor. The best ice cream shop in Banff, and the perfect final ice cream of the entire trip.

The Banff Gondola

The next morning, our Rocky Mountaineer tour group gathered and headed to the famous Banff Gondola on Sulphur Mountain. Our tickets — with specific ascent and return times — were handed out on the bus. We arrived a little early, but the gondola attendant kindly waved us through as it wasn’t yet crowded.

The four of us jumped into a small gondola and enjoyed the ride to the summit. Once at the top, we walked around the second floor of the gondola building taking in the views — and then Gary and I spotted a wooden walkway/stairs leading to the old weather and science station observatory, several hundred feet higher still. Bob and Mary settled in comfortably while Gary and I took to the stairs for more discovery.

We stopped at several vantage points along the way, photographing the rivers, mountain ranges, and valleys spreading out below us in every direction. The scenery continued to be breathtaking at every turn. At the very top, we discovered something unexpected — this has been not only a weather station but also a science observatory since the 1950s, where researchers have been studying cosmic rays and their effects on the Earth. It’s amazing the little-known facts you discover while traveling.

After a full 360-degree survey of the surrounding peaks and a good read of the cosmic ray exhibits, we headed back down to Bob and Mary, making sure we didn’t miss our designated return time to the base.

Back on the tour bus, our guide shared more about the history of the sulfur hot springs and the legendary Banff Springs Hotel as we wound our way out of town — and toward our final destination.

Calgary: A Grand Finale at the Fairmont Palliser

Unfortunately, we were heading toward Calgary and the end of our journey. The Rocky Mountaineer tour delivered us to the Fairmont Palliser Hotel, known as the Grand Dame of Calgary. The Palliser was the last of the great upscale hotels built by the Canadian Pacific Railway to attract tourists to the West — a fitting final chapter for a journey that had followed the railway’s legacy all the way from Vancouver.

After checking in and taking a well-earned rest, we ventured out for Mexican food a few blocks away. Native Tongues Taqueria was perfect — eclectic tacos, excellent margaritas, and exactly the right energy for a celebration dinner. We raised our glasses to an amazing trip and gave genuine thanks for the extraordinary weather that had graced every single day of the journey.

Wildlife: The Living Landscape

Throughout the journey, the Canadian Rockies shared their wildlife generously. Some highlights:

• Bighorn Sheep — spotted along the road to the Columbia Icefield, completely unbothered
• by the traffic
• Grizzly Bear — spotted climbing steep slopes toward forested cover, a genuinely thrilling
• moment
• Mountain Goats — picked out along rocky outcroppings throughout the drive
• Eagles — soaring overhead at several points along the Icefields Parkway

But my personal favorite wildlife sighting of the entire trip? One I only saw in a photograph — in gallery in Banff.

Meet The Boss. Bear #122

Here’s to the Boss. May he roam those mountains for many years to come.

The Boss is the most famous grizzly bear in Banff National Park — quite possibly the biggest an oldest in the entire park. Weighing over 600 pounds, with an estimated age of around 30 years, he has been photographed by countless visitors and has made the local papers more times than most politicians. His legend only grows with each new sighting. He is, by any measure, a living icon of the Canadian Rockies.

I highly recommend a stop in at The All in the Wild Gallery, Banff. Jason’s images are beautiful. the polar bear photos are especially amazing.

Conclusion: A Journey Worth Sixty Years of Waiting

Gary and Mary departed early the next morning, heading south to Georgia. Bob and I stayed on one more day in Calgary before making our own way home — though our route took a beautiful detour first.

My grandson lives just over the Canadian border in Blaine, Washington, and was graduating from high school. This trip had been perfectly timed so we could make our way through Northeast Washington to celebrate with him and my son — another beautiful corner of North America to add to the journey.

The Rocky Mountaineer Journey Through the Clouds was everything we hoped it would be — and more. From the glass dome coaches and extraordinary meals on the train, to Jasper’s resilient spirit, the ancient ice of the Columbia Icefield, the turquoise perfection of Lake Louise, and two unforgettable days in Banff. Every mile delivered on the promise of this landscape.

Sixty years after finding my grandmother’s viewfinder, I have now seen those mountains for myself. The pictures in my camera will never do them justice. But I’ll keep taking them anyway.

Practical Notes

• The Drive: Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) — Jasper to Banff, 232 km (144 miles). Allow a full day — there is far too much to see to rush this.
• Columbia Icefield: Book the Ice Explorer glacier tour in advance — it fills up quickly in summer. Dress warmly regardless of season — the wind on the glacier is brutal. Buffet lunch at Discovery Centre included in many tour packages.
• Columbia Icefield Skywalk: Often included with glacier tour packages. Worth every nervous step —the views are extraordinary.
• Banff Gondola: Book in advance. Your ticket will include specific ascent and return times. Arrive a few minutes early — they may let you on sooner if not crowded. Don’t miss the walkway up to the cosmic ray observatory at the summit.
• Banff Hotels: Moose Lake Lodge — nice property, skip the in-house restaurant. Fairmont BanffSprings — if budget allows, an extraordinary experience.
• Banff Restaurants: Hello Sunshine, St. James Gate Irish Pub, Fairmont Banff Springs patio — all highly recommended. Skip Picini at Moose Lake Lodge.
• Calgary: Fairmont Palliser Hotel — elegant and historic. Native Tongues Taqueria — excellent eclectic tacos, great for a celebration dinner.
• Don’t Miss: COWS Banff ice cream — non-negotiable. And keep your eyes open for The Boss.